The Sweet History of St. Louis Gooey Butter Cake

The origin story of the gooey butter cake is a charming piece of local St. Louis folklore, often told with a twinkle in the eye. It’s said that this happy accident occurred in the 1930s at a small bakery owned by John Hoffman, located in the heart of St. Louis, Missouri. A newly hired German-American baker, perhaps still learning the ropes or simply having an off day, made a delightful mistake.

Instead of applying the usual “deep butter smear” onto a coffee cake, he mistakenly used a different, richer, and decidedly “gooier” butter smear – one that contained a significantly higher proportion of butter. Realizing the error, but not wanting to waste the batch, John Hoffman decided to bake and sell the cake anyway. To everyone’s surprise and delight, this “mistake” was an instant sensation! Customers couldn’t get enough of the unique, gooey texture and rich flavor, and thus, a St. Louis legend was born.

Decades later, to make this beloved treat more accessible for everyday baking, a simpler variation emerged. This version, utilizing commercial yellow cake mix and cream cheese, allowed home cooks to recreate a similar, though distinct, gooey butter cake with greater ease. However, for those seeking the true taste of St. Louis tradition, the original yeasted version remains the gold standard, a testament to that accidental culinary genius.

Step-by-Step: How to Make St. Louis Gooey Butter Cake

Creating this authentic St. Louis delight is a rewarding process. Follow these detailed steps to achieve a perfect, gooey masterpiece. Further details and precise measurements can be found in the comprehensive recipe card below.

To make the cake base:

Step 1: Activate the yeast. In a small bowl, gently dissolve the active dry yeast in warm water and milk (ensure the liquid is between 105-115°F/40-46°C to properly activate the yeast). You can sprinkle in a tiny bit of the granulated sugar to help feed the yeast, if desired. Allow this mixture to sit undisturbed for 5-10 minutes. It should become visibly foamy and bubbly, indicating the yeast is active and ready to work its magic (photo 1). While the yeast blooms, prepare your 9×13 inch baking dish by thoroughly buttering it or spraying it with a non-stick cooking spray. I typically use about 1 tablespoon of softened butter to grease the pan, ensuring every corner is covered. Set the prepared pan aside.

Step 2: Cream butter and sugar for the base. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, combine the softened butter, granulated sugar, and kosher salt. Cream these ingredients together on medium speed until the mixture appears lightened in color and texture (photo 2). Don’t expect it to become “light and fluffy” like a typical cake batter, as there isn’t a large amount of sugar for that kind of aeration; instead, it will be well-combined and slightly pale.

Step 3: Incorporate the egg. Add the large egg to the creamed mixture and continue to beat until it is fully incorporated and the batter is smooth (photo 3). Using softened, room-temperature butter will make this step significantly easier, allowing for a seamless integration of the egg. If your butter was a bit on the colder side, don’t worry too much; it might just take a little longer to combine, and some small butter lumps are acceptable as they will melt during baking.

A quick note on butter temperature: my “room temperature” butter sometimes leaned a bit cold, which is perfect for creating chewy sugar cookies but less ideal for a smooth, homogenous cake batter. If you find yourself with tiny butter lumps even after mixing, don’t stress! It’s perfectly fine, as these small pieces will melt into the batter during baking without negatively impacting the final texture.

Step 4: Combine dry and wet ingredients. With the mixer running on low speed, slowly add the all-purpose flour to the butter mixture (photo 4). Once partially incorporated, pour in the activated yeast mixture (photo 5). Increase the mixer speed to medium-high and beat the mixture for approximately 2-3 minutes. The goal is for the “dough” to become smooth and begin to pull away from the sides of the bowl (photo 6). While it won’t form a stiff dough like traditional bread, you’ll observe strands of batter pulling away and then mixing back in. Again, don’t fret if it doesn’t look exactly like a classic dough; this batter-like consistency is precisely what we’re aiming for.

This stage isn’t about forming a stiff bread “dough”; rather, you’re looking for a thick, cohesive batter. The visual cue of strands pulling away from the bowl and then reincorporating signifies sufficient mixing – typically within 2-3 minutes. Relax, this is exactly how it should be!

Step 5: Spread the cake base into the pan. Transfer the prepared batter into your greased 9×13 inch baking dish. Use a small offset spatula or the back of a spoon to evenly spread the dough across the bottom of the pan. To prevent sticking, you can lightly spray both sides of your spatula with cooking spray. Ensure the dough extends evenly to all edges and corners of the pan, creating a consistent base layer (photo 7).

Step 6: Proof the cake base. Cover the baking dish loosely with plastic wrap or a clean kitchen towel. Place it in a warm, draft-free spot to proof until it has almost doubled in size. This rising process is crucial for the cake’s tender texture. With active dry yeast, this typically takes about 1 ½ to 2 hours. If you’re using instant yeast, expect a shorter proofing time, closer to 1 hour. During the final 20 minutes of the proofing time, preheat your oven to 375°F (190°C).

Prepare the gooey topping:

Step 7: Whisk the syrup mixture. In a separate small bowl, whisk together the light corn syrup, water, and vanilla extract until well combined. Set this mixture aside for later use (photo 8).

Using warm water for this step can significantly help in the easier integration of the corn syrup, ensuring a smoother mixture without any stubborn clumps.

Step 8: Cream butter and sugar for the topping. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment (or a large bowl with an electric hand mixer), cream together the softened butter, granulated sugar, and salt until they form a thick, cohesive paste (photo 9). Next, add the large egg (photo 10) and continue to beat the mixture on medium speed until it is lightened in color and texture, and the egg is fully incorporated into the buttery sugar paste (photo 11).

Step 9: Add flour and salt. Reduce the mixer speed to low and gradually add the all-purpose flour and kosher salt to the butter mixture. Continue mixing until these dry ingredients are just combined. At this stage, the mixture will have a consistency and even a taste reminiscent of classic sugar cookie dough (photo 12)!

Step 10: Incorporate the syrup mixture. Once the flour and salt are fully incorporated into the butter-sugar-egg mixture, add the previously prepared corn syrup mixture (photo 13). Increase the mixer speed to medium-high and continue to beat until all ingredients are thoroughly combined and the topping batter is smooth and luscious (photo 14). It will be thick and rich, perfect for spreading.

Assemble & bake your St. Louis Gooey Butter Cake:

Step 11: Apply the topping. Gently dollop spoonfuls of the thick sugar batter over the entire surface of the risen dough (photos 15 & 16). You’ll find there’s a generous amount of batter, enough to almost completely cover the base even before spreading. Then, using a small offset spatula or the back of a spoon, carefully spread the sugar mixture evenly over the top of the cake base, ensuring it reaches all the edges (photo 17).

Step 12: Bake to gooey perfection. Place the assembled cake in your preheated oven and bake for 30-35 minutes. The cake is ready when it achieves a light golden brown color, with the edges appearing slightly darker and more caramelized, and a subtle bubbling in the center. Rotate the pan halfway through baking (after about 20 minutes) to ensure even browning. When gently shaken, the center of the cake should still have a cohesive jiggle, much like a perfectly set cheesecake, indicating that the gooey layer is perfectly cooked yet delightfully soft (photo 18).

Step 13: Cool and dust. Remove the cake from the oven and allow it to cool almost completely on a wire rack. This cooling period is essential for the gooey topping to fully set and achieve its intended texture. Once cooled, generously dust the entire top surface of the cake with confectioners’ sugar using a fine-mesh sieve. This final touch adds both beauty and a balanced sweetness (photos 19 & 20).

Frequently Asked Questions About Gooey Butter Cake

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